Country-club eating without that wallet-weary membership fee.. The Scene The setting is as practical as the food, which means a lot of beige. The generally senior clientele suggests a CBS target audience: We're talking "Murder She Wrote," not the latest Chris Carter vehicle. Come prepared for a quiet, polite meal. Not a bad spot at which to pop the question, or to pop a cork to celebrate a business milestone.
The Menu There's no surprise except for the lack of surprises. The portions are considerable, the side dishes aren't influenced by any contemporary fads, the meat is unapologetic ... and delicious. Speaking of side dishes, the mashed sweet potatoes are worth a visit unto themselves.
The Spot Blocks from the horse stables at City Park, the Steak Knife serves up traditional American food: meat and fixings with a nod to formal dining. The service is attentive, even elegant, and the presentation is straightforward.