Sukhothai

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
With its towering ceilings and relaxed, cafe-like vibe, Sukho Thai fits nicely into its Marigny surroundings. Pale golden walls add to the irregularly-shaped room's airy feel. An efficient but informal staff guides a mixed neighborhood crowd (hipsters and staid professionals) through an unusually encyclopedic menu.

The Food
The menu runs the gamut from the usual deep-fried starters to more unusual fruit-based curries and outstanding wok-fried entrees. Secondary flavors lend outstanding depth to most dishes: lime juice and lemongrass add bright aromas and flavor to the chunky tom yum goong soup; rich coconut and fragrant basil play well in the savory panang beef curry. Heavily-sauced "drunken noodles" combine rich, dark soy notes with just enough garlic to cut the sauce's sweetness. Desserts rotate through the specials board, but usually play toward the tropical flavors instead of pastry-based options: A black rice pudding matches sticky grain texture with sweet-tart tamarind sauce and a hint of salt.